Purchase Agreement | Hallslake Cockers & Cockapoos

When a puppy is collected from us here at Hallslake, he or she will come with an extensive Puppy Pack. there will be a tote bag containing food, poo bags, a scent toy, and a folder containing Puppy's vaccination record, microchip transfer details, some wormer, and a paper copy of our sale agreement which is full of advice and covers lots of questions you may have as new puppy owners. I have copied and pasted the wording from our paperwork in the puppy pack below, but the format of the writing and images haven't transferred brilliantly to the pasting I'm afraid. If you would like it in better quality, I've also added a download option. All of this info will be thoroughly gone through on collection of Puppy, so you don't need to print it off, it's just for interest.

This first one is the full pack which goes with the puppy;

Puppy Pack 2024

This second one is the section that is signed and we keep here;

Retained Copy Puppy Pack 2024

Hallslake Cockers & Cockapoos

Information about your new Puppy

NAME:

MICROCHIP NUMBER:

MICROCHIP DATABASE REGISTERED WITH:

www.SmartTrace.org.uk

Graham & Liz Mugleston

Hallslake Farm, Lynton, Devon.

01598 741444

CONTENTS PAGE

Your puppy pack includes the following:

Socialisation advice
Exercise advice
Training advice
Feeding advice & puppy’s diet information
Grooming advice
Worming advice & puppy’s worming record
Immunisation advice, including advice specific to your puppy
Breed-specific tendencies & traits information
Contract of sale

SOCIALISATION ADVICE

Socialisation is a term that is often used in dog training books, in dog magazines and by breeders and trainers. But what does it actually mean and how will it affect you as a new puppy owner?

Like human children, puppies are not born with the social skills that they require to live with their family, be that a canine family or a human one. The term "socialisation" in simple terms means the learning process that a puppy must undergo in order to learn key life skills to ensure that it is happy and confident in its environment, and can communicate effectively within its social group. We ask a huge amount from our dogs in their role as a companion animal, as not only do they need to understand humans and the human world, they also need to become fluent in the language of dog.

This involves having pleasant social interactions with adults, children, vets, adult dogs and other animals, as well as careful exposure to different situations in the environment like traffic, crowds, travelling in the car, vacuum cleaners and any sights and sounds it will have to cope with in life. It is so important that this is done thoroughly and correctly when your puppy is still young and he is young enough to happily accept new things.

Puppies that have been socialised effectively in these early weeks are far less likely to react negatively to new situations, noises, people, dogs and animals than their counterparts, who have not had these important early experiences. A well socialised puppy is far more likely to integrate easily into your life, therefore making your life together much more enjoyable and rewarding.

There are two parts to socialisation and both are equally important. The first is teaching the puppy to be social with people and other dogs, while the other (called habituation) is about teaching all the things we want the puppy to ignore and not be worried about (noises, traffic, household objects etc.).

Being a companion is the hardest job we ever ask a dog to do as our expectations are so high. We want dogs to get on with everybody and everything, and to go everywhere with us when we want, but be happy to be left alone without complaint when we don’t, to be accepting of loud noises, strangers, other dogs... The list is endless. It is a sad fact that one of the major causes of death in dogs under two years old is euthanasia, as a result of behaviour problems. Most of these behaviour problems arise from fear (fear of strange noises, fear of being left alone – and indeed aggression nearly always arises from fear – fear of strange dogs, fear of strange people or fear of strange situations). In addition, far too many dogs are ending up in rescue centres. Behaviourists and trainers up and down the country are seeing dogs with problems that could so easily have been prevented if the first 16 weeks of that dog’s life had been properly managed, and they had been prepared for the life they were going to lead.

Some breeds need far more socialisation and habituation than others – with more reactive breeds (such as those bred to guard, some terriers etc.) needing more – and earlier – socialisation than others. Therefore, it is important for breeders and new owners to know how reactive their chosen breed is so they can focus their socialisation accordingly.

On the breeders’ part, socialising their litter can start as early as when the puppies are a few days old. Gentle handling and checking the progress of the litter are all important steps in the first few days of a puppy’s life. Over the course of the following weeks the breeder can introduce noises, different surfaces, different play items as well as different play and feeding locations around the house – all of this habituation and novelty contributes to the puppies’ early development. The early ground work that the breeder puts into their litters’ social and emotional wellbeing has a direct impact on their puppies’ ability to be fit for function as a family dog.

It is imperative that the puppy’s new owner continues this when their new puppy comes home. From around 5 weeks and continuing at the time the puppy goes to his or her new home, an important transition takes place in the puppy’s ability to take in new situations as his natural fearfulness increases.

It is therefore so important that new owners don’t miss this valuable window of opportunity for their puppy to experience new things – which will close at around 14-16 weeks. This time also coincides with the puppy’s vaccinations, so a balance must be struck so not to miss out on this important learning opportunity. This can be achieved by taking your puppy out and about in your arms, while not allowing them to come into direct contact with other dogs until their vaccinations have taken place. Getting out and about with your puppy is key to them accepting everyday things, such as traffic and busy places, as part of normal life. It is important that you think about what life as part of your family will entail for a puppy – for instance, if you live in the inner city spending a significant amount of time socialising your puppy to farm animals may not be of great benefit, as it is unlikely they will encounter them in their day to day life:

The same also goes for all the different people your puppy is likely to meet such as: people with beards, people wearing hats, people wearing high visibility clothing, babies, children, people with pushchairs/prams, elderly people, people with walking sticks and people in wheelchairs to name but a few, or anyone else you are likely to meet.

Puppy parties

Vet surgeries often hold ‘puppy parties’ for their new clients, but these should be treated with some caution. Well managed puppy parties can be great social interaction for puppies of all ages and sizes. Well managed parties should:

Match puppies up according to their size so that the bolder puppies don’t intimidate the more nervous or smaller ones, and thereby create negative experiences for the smaller puppies, and make the bolder ones ‘social bullies’.
Manage any off-lead play carefully and if necessary, separate puppies that get a bit too boisterous so that they can calm down and re-join the party once they are calmer.
Discourage any kind of anti-social behaviour, such as biting that gets out of hand, very rough play and also show the owners how to discourage this.
Show owners how to handle and groom their puppies – and have others do this too.
Be fun positive experiences for puppies and owners.

The Puppy Socialisation Plan

Until now there was no definitive plan for effectively socialising your puppy, which was resulting in rescue centres seeing increasing numbers of dogs coming to them with behavioural issues that could have been avoided with proper socialisation. In order to counteract this, the Kennel Club and Dogs Trust have jointly devised a socialisation plan for both breeders and new owners to follow as a step by step guide - it is called the Puppy Socialisation Plan. Both the Kennel Club and Dogs Trust recommend the Puppy Socialisation Plan as an effective plan for breeders and new owners to prepare their puppies as best they can for life as family pets. It is simple to complete, and can be tailored to suit you and your lifestyle, so it is highly recommended that novice breeders and new owners follow the Plan.

It is critical that this is done from birth up to 16 weeks of age, otherwise important learning and development phases have passed. The Plan covers everything from getting used to household noises, to getting out and about and meeting new people and other dogs. Therefore, you need to plan and incorporate some extremely important life lessons during the early stages of your puppy's development, so that you end up with a well-balanced and sociable dog.

You can find The Puppy Socialisation Plan located at - http://www.thepuppyplan.com/

EXERCISE ADVICE

An important part of a dog’s life is exercise, not only for fitness, but also for mental stimulation. Indeed exercise times and feeding times are often the most exciting parts of a dog’s day, and your puppy will grow to keenly anticipate them.

Small beginnings

Puppies need much less exercise than fully-grown dogs. If you over-exercise a growing puppy, you can quickly overtire it, and more importantly damage its developing joints, which may cause early arthritis. A good rule of thumb is a ratio of five minutes exercise per month of age (up to twice a day), until the puppy is fully grown, i.e. 15 minutes when three months old, 20 minutes when four months old etc. Below you will find breed-specific exercise information relating to your puppy:

Exercise Requirements

0-12 weeks. Until a puppy has completed its course of vaccinations, there is a risk of infection. Therefore, it is usually better that exercise is restricted to within the confines of your garden. Exercise in the garden also provides an excellent opportunity to start early training, and to get your puppy used to wearing a collar. Make sure your puppy has a number of safe toys, and always accompany them in the garden. This way, you can engage your puppy in suitable levels of activity, and start to reward good toileting behaviour, which can usually provide all the puppy’s exercise needs during this time. If the opportunity arises, take your puppy to other safe environments where there is no risk, and it is able to mix with other animals and people, such as private gardens where only vaccinated dogs have access. Socialising at an early age is a vital part of your dog’s development.

Exercise Requirements

Puppies need only to play in the garden at first. Once their inoculations are complete they can have a little gentle exercise and meet the outside world. When they are about 6 months old and their bone structure is more or less developed then they can go for longer walks. They should not be allowed to become exhausted but build up their exercise routine little by little.

Most adult Cockapoos will be very happy having a brisk walk for about 30 minutes morning and evening. They will also have to go out into the garden about every four hours during the day.

It is important that puppies and dogs go out for exercise every day in a safe and secure area, or they may become frustrated. Time spent in the garden (however large) is no substitute for exploring new environments, and socialising with other dogs. When you go out, make sure your puppy is trained to recall, so that you are confident the puppy will return to you when called (see the accompanying sheet on ‘Training your Puppy’).

You should never exercise your puppy on a full stomach as this may contribute to bloat or stomach dilation which can sometimes prove fatal.

All dogs require regular exercise to remain fit and prevent them from becoming overweight, which may also lead to health problems. You should remember however, that exercise needs to be introduced gradually, and that a young puppy will not have the same exercise requirement as an adult dog.

The duration and frequency of exercise should remain consistent and any increases should be gradual. For the majority of dogs, exercise is an important part of their life and so they will take as much as you can give. A dog will also enjoy play, whether with you or on its own, and so toys play an important part in a dog's life.

Dependant on breed and temperament and mobility, a dog will normally be capable of walking to the same capability as its owner, however as a dog becomes older, exercise should be reduced and your dog should be allowed to walk at its own pace.

PUPPY TRAINING ADVICE

Bringing your puppy home for the first time is naturally a happy and exciting occasion, but it can be a little daunting too – there is so much for both you and your puppy to learn! The information below should help you on your way to raising a happy and well trained dog right from the start.

Important training tips:

Start as you mean to go on. If you are always consistent you will avoid confusing your puppy. Puppies have a very short attention span so train for short spells on a regular basis

Keep it short and keep it simple, but most of all keep it fun. Puppies respond better to cheerful voice tones rather than to threatening orders. Gentle play builds trust and a strong bond between you and your puppy as well as making training fun. Patience is the KEY ingredient in dog training. If you try to rush things you will only get frustrated and confuse your puppy. Keep it interesting: cultivate a range of different rewards incorporating play, fuss, praise, treats and toys. This will stop both of you from getting bored.

Toilet training puppies the easy way

Toilet training is obviously a crucial part of your puppy’s early learning. Getting it right is relatively simple, and will make those first weeks so much more enjoyable for you both. However, like all things, bad habits learnt early on can lead to problems that may take weeks or even months to resolve.

Initially, you will have to build your daily routine around your puppy’s needs. Fortunately, these are quite predictable when they are very young, and with careful supervision you should quickly establish when it is the right time to go outside and minimise any accidents.

Like babies, puppies have poor bladder control, and need to go to the toilet several times an hour when they are awake. They will also usually need to be taken outside first thing in the morning, last thing at night, after each meal, waking from a nap, and after any exercise, play or excitement. You may find it useful to keep a record of when your puppy sleeps, eats and goes to the toilet so that you can identify any patterns that emerge. One tip is to remember that once you wake up in the morning your puppy will hear you and wake up too, there is no time for you to have a cup of coffee or clean your teeth before your puppy has a wee, so go straight outside with your puppy.

Always go with your puppy into the garden and establish a regular spot. Puppies are creatures of habit, so as long as you introduce the garden to the puppy as its toilet area early on, you should be able to avoid most accidents. Decide on a cue word or phrase to use when the puppy is actually going to the toilet, so that the puppy will start to associate the word with the action and should learn to go on command. By accompanying your puppy into the garden each time, you will be there to attach cue words and praise to any successful actions.

If toilet training is not going quite as well as planned, some common reasons for why your puppy is struggling are as follows:

Feeding

You are feeding the puppy too much.
The puppy food you are giving is unsuitable or you are giving too much variety for a puppy of their age.
You are not feeding at regular times.
You are feeding at the wrong times (which could mean your puppy needs to go to the toilet during the night).
You are giving foods which are too salty, causing your puppy to drink more.

Training

Punishing your puppy for accidents indoors may make it scared of going to the toilet in front of you – even outside. Expecting your puppy to tell you when it needs to go to the toilet is unrealistic. It is far better to go outside at regular intervals. Leaving the back door or outside access open for your puppy to come and go as it pleases can cause confusion – particularly when that access is closed. Do not leave your puppy too long on its own so that it is forced to go indoors. Leaving your puppy alone in the garden means that you are not there to praise and reward, or to reinforce the idea that the garden is the correct place to go. Try to avoid using the words “good boy/girl” when your puppy is going to the toilet - you don’t want your puppy going to the toilet every time it is praised. Puppies can exhibit submissive or excitable urination when greeting you on your return home. Toning down greetings can help prevent your puppy from becoming overexcited.

Environment

Being surrounded by lots of absorbent or grass-like surfaces, such as rugs and carpets, may confuse your puppy. Ammonia based cleaning products used around the house can smell like urine to your puppy, and lead to unwanted accidents. If your puppy does have an accident inside, the scent will still be apparent to the puppy for a long time afterwards, even if you have thoroughly disinfected the area. Specialist cleaning products specifically designed to mask the odour are available. We particularly like ‘Method’ anti-bac all-purpose cleaner in Rhubarb, this cleans well and also masks the smell very well without using bleach or harsh chemicals. Follow this link to see the product. https://methodproducts.co.uk/products/anti-bac-multi-surface-cleaner

Beyond the garden, many owners can be disappointed that their young puppy does not initially toilet when first venturing out on walks. Often, your puppy will only relieve itself the second you get home. This is because the puppy has not yet associated going out for a walk as an opportunity to go to the toilet, so will wait until they return home to their garden, which they know is a good place to go. To break this habit, get up a little earlier in the morning (when you have plenty of time) and take your puppy out on a walk before it has had a chance to visit its usual spot. Stay out with your puppy for a reasonable length of time until it has been to the toilet, and then give plenty of praise. If you are not successful, make sure the puppy is whisked into the garden to relieve itself or you will run the risk of a large puddle indoors!

Remember, patience and consistency is key. All puppies take different amounts of time to learn, so don’t worry if your puppy seems to be taking longer to get the hang of things. Your patience will pay off and you will both get there in the end. Also remember that a crate trained puppy will house train much faster and more easily than a puppy which is free to roam the house.

Crate training;

Here at Hallslake Cockers, as a broad statement, we ARE in favour of crate training. It’s a personal choice, and the new owners should be prepared for a stressful first week if choosing to use a crate, however its short term pain for long term gain and your commitment to creating a good routine will pay dividends for the rest of your puppy’s life.

Before taking your puppy home, buy your crate and position it somewhere in a sociable room where puppy can see what’s going on, but in a corner or somewhere slightly out of the way. Cover the top and sides with a blanket or towel to give a cosy secure feel to the crate. Remember to shut the puppy in the crate when you ARE there, not just when you are leaving the puppy on its own. Make closing the door part of your daily routine (just for the first couple of months of training) when you are there so the puppy doesn’t associate shutting the door with being abandoned. For the first few days the puppy will cry and howl, this is totally normal until he learns the routine he is expected to follow. The more attentive you are to establishing a routing the calmer and happier your puppy will be, and the quicker he will pass out of the noisy protesting stage. The times a puppy will want to go outside to pee/poo are when he wakes up from a sleep and after eating. Knowing this the easiest routine we find for the initiation to the crate is to bed the crate with towels or vet bed or something easy to wash (NOT the lovely comfy, puffy bed you have probably already bought… keep that clean ready for next week once the rules are a bit more established and puppy is less likely to mess in his bedroom), and just put your puppy inside and shut the door. If puppy cries, yelps or makes a fuss, DO NOT GO TO HIM and do not make eye contact, just ignore the puppy and continue doing your normal behaviour until the puppy cries himself to sleep, now is your chance to be attentive…. Watch the puppy until he wakes up, you will have a small window of opportunity between him waking up, needing to pee and starting to cry. In this window of time, you need to go to your puppy and take him outside to his pee place, and wait with him until he does his business. It may take a long time, be patient and don’t give in and go back inside, even if it’s raining! It’s helpful to choose a command to associate with having a pee/poo, such as ‘do your business’ etc. As time goes on you will be able to encourage timely loo breaks when you’re in a rush. Once puppy has gone to the loo take him back inside for play time. If he wants to go again he will quite likely try to skulk away behind a sofa or in to another room. Keep your eye on him and if he does this take him back outside again. Once you have played with him and he is starting to look tired return him to his crate, and shut the door. Repeat this process throughout the day. A helpful tip that we find helpful, is when puppy makes a mess in his bed or on a training pad, instead of throwing it away take it to the place you would like puppy to learn to pee/poo in the garden. That way when he smells it he will be reminded to go again, but this time in the right place!

At night make sure the puppy has been fed and had his food taken away by about 6-7pm, that way whatever he has last eaten will have a chance to leave before he goes to bed for the night. Make sure he is played with then taken outside for the toilet before shutting it in FOR THE NIGHT. Put bedding in the back half and newspaper in the front half. I prefer not to leave water in the crate overnight, but if you do then preferably make sure it is fixed to the bars of the cage. THIS PART IS IMPORTANT. Do all of your evening routine and get everything shut down and turned off before taking your puppy for his final pee/poo of the day. Stay out with puppy until he’s finished, then put him in bed, shut the door, turn the light off and go to bed yourself. If your puppy that wakes up and makes a noise in night, DO NOT GO TO IT. Remember - your puppy will be happier once he adjusts to your ‘pack’/routine. If you adjust to the puppy then it will not understand your routine and sleepless nights will become the norm. If you stick with this guide then noisy nights will be kept to a minimum. Then first thing in the morning, as soon as you wake up, the puppy will hear you and will also wake up, and will immediately need a wee. You will not have time to make a coffee or clean your teeth, go straight to your puppy in your dressing gown and take the puppy outside and stay with it for as long as you need. If you are lucky then you will see puppy go straight to the last place he peed and go there again. When it does, PRAISE it with great enthusiasm.

We would advise everyone to complete this part of the puppy’s education starting the second you get him home as it is extremely difficult to crate train an older dog. Even if you intended, long term, for the dog to sleep on your bed, there may be occasions when you NEED it to be in a crate. As a crate trained dog is settled when traveling in a car; is happy to sleep in a crate when circumstances require, can be safely left alone when you need to pop out to the shops, when wet &muddy fresh from a walk and needs to dry off. After the first few months Puppy will learn to love his crate and will soon go there when the door is open as his favourite place of choice, and you will rarely ever have to shut the door again.

A trained dog is a happy dog

Housetraining aside, every puppy also needs to be taught good manners and have constructive lessons in basic control and social interaction. This includes:

Responding to its name.
Learning how to greet and behave politely around other people and dogs.
To come back when called.
To walk nicely on the lead.
To sit down and stay on command.
To allow itself to be groomed and examined by you and your vet.

Our ‘Best & Worst’ early training tips

Everybody has different ideas about training, but this is what we think here are Hallslake;

We love teaching the puppies to play ‘fetch’. It is just a game to the puppy but without his knowledge he is learning so many important training commands. At first he is just following his natural instinct to retrieve, but in doing that he is learning to come to recall off the lead, to let go of something when asked (having a ‘soft mouth’) without fighting with you or growling or being possessive. Once the recall is working well you can soon progress to asking for a ‘sit’ command when returning the toy, this can be done by having a small food treat and lifting it over puppy’s head as he reaches for it, moving him in to a sitting position. If you say ‘sit’ at the same time as puppy is naturally sitting to reach the treat, puppy will soon associate the word with the action. It is good to ask for a ‘sit’ before throwing the toy as puppy will be motivated to please you in return for your throwing the toy. Once this is established you can move on to lie-down and stay in much the same manner.

Our pet hate is ‘tug-o-war’. Although puppies love playing this game, and with an older dog and with the right rules it can be a fun way of using up energy, we feel with a young puppy it encourages all the wrong behaviours. It can encourage growling, over excitement, toy guarding, reluctance to ‘give’ (hard mouthed’), biting and snatching, and an over inflated sense of their own strength & importance. So until puppy is older and established in his behaviour, we recommend NOT playing this game.

Dog training classes

Most owners can benefit from attending good training classes, and training in the company of other dogs is very useful, because of the realistic distractions it involves. Ideally, you should start your classes as soon as your puppy’s vaccinations are complete, but classes can be invaluable for older dogs too, and continue throughout the dog’s life.

There are lots of schools of thought on dog training and it is naturally important that you find a class and training instructors with the right approach for you and your puppy. Dog training can be lots of fun and very rewarding. After all, a trained dog is a happy dog, and a happy dog makes for a happy owner too.

Finding the best dog training club

Before enrolling with a dog training club it can be beneficial to go and visit several classes first (without your puppy) to make sure you have made the right choice. Things you may wish to consider include:

Do you like what you see – are the trainers friendly, are people happy and enjoying training their dogs?
Are the dogs happily focused on their human family?
Are the instructors giving lots of encouragement and information to all attendees?
Are the instructors maintaining a controlled, safe environment for all?
Are instructors treating everyone fairly and meeting the needs of the whole group?

You can find training classes by using the Kennel Club’s Find a Club service – visit www.findaclub.org.uk to find a club near you running training classes, or call the Kennel Club on 01269 318540. . You can also ask your vet and other dog owners for recommendations.

Our personal recommendation

We are delighted to have established a fantastic support opportunity for all our puppies, through our good friend, and excellent dog trainer, Jacqui! We are very happy to be able to give (at our expense) 3 x 20 minute training sessions with any of the puppies bred here at Hallslake. For people within travelling distance this can be face to face, and the 3 sessions could be taken as 2 half hour, or 1 hours session, for people further away the telephone / video call sessions are still highly effective. This may be for a new puppy for advice on how to get going on the right foot. For a juvenile who needs its training polishing, or a dog which has developed issues or hang-ups for any reason. Jacqui’s details are on our website.

There is no time limit on this offer, and we are also happy to pay for these sessions for dogs bred by us in the past if it is needed. We are always there to support the dogs we breed. We always want a Hallslake dog to be a happy dog!

DIET ADVICE

Feeding your puppy sensibly and correctly is vital to its health, development and general wellbeing. Below you will find details of your puppy’s current diet:

Your Puppy’s Current Diet

Number of Meals (per day)

Current Meal Times

Type of Food

Given

Quantity

(per meal)

Can be fed dry or soaked in warm water.

8am

1pm

6pm

Beco Pets Puppy

Approximately 1 mug per day divided between 3 feeds.

Little and often

Like all infants, puppies grow very rapidly (up to twenty times faster than an adult dog), and so require a specially formulated diet to aid their physical development. A high energy growth food is recommended and needs to be fed at evenly spaced intervals to avoid over stretching your puppy’s small stomach.

Meals should be split during the course of the day and ideally a young puppy should go approximately 4 hours between meals.

At around 6 months your puppy may need to be changed from puppy food to an adult food which will be lower in calories and protein. This will depend on the individual puppy’s weight and physical maturity.

Quantities

The quantity of food should be approximately the same for each meal. Young puppies, particularly those of a large or fast growing breed, can sometimes need more food as puppies than they require as adults. Increases of food should always be gradual and a good idea is to increase the amount on a weekly basis from 8 weeks until the puppy is 16 weeks old. Typically, by the time a puppy reaches 16 weeks, it will need roughly the same amount as when it is an adult.

Puppies can be greedy or picky with their food so it can sometimes be difficult to gauge how much to give them. Care should be taken not to over or underfeed your puppy. Puppies can often appear ‘chubby’, particularly after they have eaten, but under normal circumstances they should have a defined ‘waist’. If in any doubt about your puppy’s weight or diet, consult your vet when you next visit for a puppy check-up.

Below is some information about feeding your puppy in the future, however you should aways follow the feed manufacturers weight guide as to amounts to feed your puppy

Future Feeding Recommendations

*Age of Puppy*	*Number of Meals (per day)*	*Type of Food*	*Quantity* *(per meal)*
2-4 Months	3	Beco Pets Puppy	1/3 Mug (approx)
4-6 Months	2	Beco Pets Puppy	1/2 Mug (approx)
6+ Months	2	Beco Pets Adult	2/3 Mug (approx)

There are many varied feeding regimes to choose from: dry complete diets, semi-moist or pouch, tinned food (with or without biscuit mixer), raw food, and home-made food. Each food category has different qualities, and finding the right balance for your puppy is extremely important.

The most suitable diet should be easily digested and produce dark brown, firm, formed stools. If your puppy produces soft or light stools or has wind or diarrhoea, then the diet may not suit your puppy or it might have some kind of digestive problem or infection. If the condition persists for more than 2 days, consult your vet for advice.

Please remember that stability in the diet will help maintain good digestion. Any change in diet should be made very gradually over at least a week to avoid upset and you should try a new diet for at least 10 days before making any further changes.

Dry complete foods

There is a wide range of dry complete foods on the market and the quality varies widely. To get the best out of your puppy’s development choose a food specially designed for puppies. Some puppies are not accustomed to complete dry foods immediately after weaning but will normally grow to like them with time. If your puppy does not seem to like eating dry complete and this is what you wish to feed, you can try soaking the food in a little warm water to soften it.

The dry food we recommend is Beco Pets. More information on this top quality food can be found on their website; www.BecoPets.com

Semi-moist, pouch, tinned and frozen foods

As with complete dry foods, semi-moist, pouch, tinned and frozen foods can vary in quality. Again, choose a good quality diet which is easily digestible, nutritionally complete and does not require additional foods to be added to it. As before it is best to avoid changes in your puppy’s diet - so if you find a product that works for your puppy, stick to it.

Home-made food (raw fresh or frozen meat)

Before the advent of commercial dog foods, it was quite common to feed dogs raw or cooked fresh meat. Many people still consider that there is no substitute for feeding raw meat; these diets are sometimes referred to as BARF (Bones and raw food diet). Meat on its own however, is not enough, and dogs need other ingredients, for example biscuit, and supplements to maintain a completely balanced diet. Puppies in particular, need a balanced and nutritious diet whilst they are growing up, as even a slight imbalance may harm their development and growth. Additionally, home-made foods obviously necessitate a fair degree of pre-planning and preparation. However, there are a number of manufacturers now providing pre-packaged complete BARF diets, which make the feeding regime easier to administer. At Hallslake all our puppies will have started off with their first solid food being weaning paste. This is a complete and balanced raw food for puppies. If you are interested in continuing with RAW food we are happy to discuss this.

Treats

Giving treats is a good way to reward your dog during training and encourage the behaviour you want. There are a wide variety of prepared and natural treats on the market which vary hugely in quality. Some commercial treats have lots of sugar, colourings, milk products and fat in them, so always check the ingredients label. Good quality prepared treats have been developed with dogs dietary needs in mind.

However, all treats should be given sparingly, and never comprise more than 15% of your puppy’s total calorie intake. If you use treats regularly, reduce the amount of main meal food your dog is receiving in order to avoid obesity. Some chew treats have proven ability to help prevent dental diseases, but again check the label to ensure you are getting a genuine product.

Human chocolate is poisonous to dogs and can cause liver damage and even be fatal, so never give your dog any chocolate, or leave any lying around where it might be found and eaten. Be especially careful at Christmas and Easter time.

Avoid giving your puppy any sweet biscuits or sugary treats which are bad for its teeth as well as its waistline, and can cause sugar ‘highs’ and ‘lows’. Stick to prepared which tend to be much more popular.

Always remember that table scraps contain calories so they should be taken into account as part of the daily diet. Better still; don’t be tempted to feed table scraps at all.

Food sensitivities and intolerances

Like humans, some dogs are sensitive or intolerant to certain foods, and this can cause a variety of problems. In extreme cases, they may develop colitis (slime and blood in their stools). Always consult your vet if you notice you dog displaying any of the following symptoms:

Lethargy.
Aggressive or hyperactive behaviour.
Chronic skin and ear problems.
Light to mid-brown loose bulky stools or diarrhoea.
Slime or jelly being passed with stools and flatulence.
Bloating and weight gain or loss.

Feeding tips

Clean fresh water should always be available. Dogs eating wet food (i.e. canned) will receive moisture through their food and therefore require less water than dogs eating dry food. However, whatever the diet, water should always be made available.
Do not refill half empty bowls, but ensure that fresh food is always provided at each meal time. This is particularly true in the hot weather when food left in bowls can attract flies and other insects.
Half full cans of dog food should be kept covered in the fridge, but allowed to stand until the food is up to room temperature before feeding.
There are two different types of dog food manufactured "complete" and "complementary", clearly marked on the label. A complete food can be fed as a sole source of nutrition and is available as both canned and dry food. A complementary food is designed to accompany the complete food and should not be used as the only source of daily nutrition.
It is better to stick to one variety of complete puppy food, so you don’t need to add anything to the diet. Always remember that over-supplementing can be harmful to your puppy.
If your puppy does not eat all of its meal in one go, you may be offering it too much. Not all puppies eat the amount recommended by the pet food manufacturers. Puppies’ appetites can vary enormously, with some eating much less than the recommended amounts, whilst others scoff their meal down as if it was their last!
As long as your puppy is not showing any growth or digestive problems, resist the temptation to change its diet or offer it a range of foods, as you may turn your puppy into a fussy eater.
Never change your puppy’s diet abruptly (unless under the direction of your vet). If you want to change its diet, do it gradually over a period of a few days to a week or longer if necessary.
Avoid feeding your puppy before travelling in the car, as this can encourage car sickness.
Do not feed your puppy an hour before or after exercise or play, as this could lead to stomach dilation and torsion (also known as bloat), which is a life threatening condition requiring immediate veterinary intervention. For owners of breeds which are thought to be susceptible to this condition, you should seek advice from your breeder, vet and/or breed club on further precautionary measures.
Leave your puppy in peace while it is eating from its bowl. Taking the bowl away while it is eating causes anxiety and this can lead to food aggression. If you want to be sure that your puppy is comfortable with you approaching it during mealtimes, add a little food to the bowl while it is eating, so it sees you as an asset, rather than a threat.
Never feed your dog from the table or your plate, as this encourages drooling and attention seeking behaviours, such as begging and barking.

Potential Toxins/Poisons (this list is by no means complete and always consult your vet if you puppy ingests anything it shouldn’t)

Chocolate.
Coffee/Caffeine.
Grapes/Raisins/Currants/Sultanas.
Artificial sweeteners containing xylitol.
Onions, chives and garlic & including some garden/household plants.
Slug pellets and other pesticides.
Macadamia nuts.

GROOMING ADVICE

Reasons for grooming – Remember ‘CHAIR’

Cleanliness – keeping your dog’s coat clean by removing dirt and dead hair helps encourage new hair growth, and reduces the amount of hair deposited on household furniture
Health – grooming helps to stimulate new coat growth, and prevents the formation of knots or matting which may lead to skin irritation

Appearance – most owners take a pride in their dogs looking smart, and regular grooming will certainly help your puppy to look its best

Inspection – regular grooming is also a great way to check for parasites, or any suspicious lumps and bumps

Relationship – grooming is part of dog’s socialisation activities. Regular grooming helps create a bond between you and your puppy, and accustoms your puppy to being handled. Do remember that grooming should include checking ears, nails, teeth, and eyes etc. on a regular basis.

Dog coat types

It’s worth bearing in mind that including the natural variances that can occur naturally in the F1 & F1b coat, factors like neutering, age, poor diet, worms or poor health can dramatically influence your dog’s coat. The guide bellow is based on the typical F1 loose ringlet coat.

Your Puppy’s Grooming Requirements

Coat Type

(e.g. wire, double)

Amount of Grooming Required

Suggested Grooming Equipment

A dense, bouncy coat requiring great care. A coat of high maintenance which may require specific drying techniques and trimming styles

Approximately 40 minutes twice a week to prevent matts and tangles forming. Every day for 5 minutes is recommended.

Slicker brush
Wide/narrow toothed comb

Additional Information:

The level of grooming your Cockapoo requires will depend largely on the coat type of your individual dog, and the look you wish to achieve. Not all Cockapoos have the same coat type and while long loose waves are the normal F1 coat you would expect, some Cockapoos take more after the poodle with a very curly coat, while others have a flatter coat more like the Cocker. If you prefer the wavey shaggy looking coat you will need to bush it often and take your dog for regular trims. If you prefer them being a little lower maintenance tough, you can clip him or her yourself using electric clippers. This way they require less brushing and are easier to keep clean and dry.

Particular care should be paid to the toes and paws of your Cockapoo as knots of hair around the pads can become very sore, so the hair should always be kept short around the pads and between the toes.

Getting started -

It is important to groom your puppy at a height which is comfortable for both you and your dog. For many dogs it may be advisable to groom them on a table and custom made grooming tables are available. But any sturdy table or work bench with a non-slip surface will suffice. Remember: never leave your puppy unattended on the table for even a short moment. Start the grooming experience at an early age as part of your puppy’s socialisation programme and routines. Keep the sessions short to start off with – just a couple of minutes, gradually increasing the time spent on the table. Always make the experience positive, rewarding with praise and suitable treats. Any struggling should be dealt with firmly but kindly, as your puppy may be frustrated, mischievous or even afraid.

Build up the experience and your puppy will come to accept the grooming routine and also being handled on the table. This will help with other activities such as veterinary visits.

Finish the grooming if your puppy shows signs of getting bored or tired, so that each session ends on a positive note.

Knots and Matts

A knot occurs where the coat is slightly tangled but it can be removed by careful brushing or combing out. Matts are formed when dead, loose undercoat hair becomes trapped by the top or guard hair, and starts to clump and twist together. If this matted coat becomes wet, the matting tightens and becomes almost solid. Do not attempt to remove matts unless trained in the procedure. Otherwise, refer to a professional groomer.

Care of ears, nails and eyes

Check your puppy’s ears to see if they are clean. You can remove excess dirt from the inside of the ear flap with damp cotton wool. Never probe inside the ear as you may perforate the ear drum. Any odour is usually a sign there is something wrong and your puppy should be taken to a vet.
If nails are excessively long remove the tip of the claw, taking care not to cut the quick or blood vessel.
If needed clean the eyes with clean, damp cotton wool using a separate piece for each eye.

External Parasites

A parasite is something that lives on another animal (the host) and gets its nourishment from the host. If left unchecked, the parasite causes disease or even death. The most common external parasites found on dogs are fleas and ticks.

Fleas are very small, brownish black, extremely agile creatures. Excessive scratching and self-biting can be symptoms of flea infestation. Even if no fleas are to be seen the presence of shiny black specks like coal dust (flea excreta) is a sure indication of the presence of fleas (dab the specks with a damp piece of cotton wool and if it goes pink it confirms the presence of fleas; these are the remains of a digested blood meal from the host).

Ticks are largish grey pea shaped parasites that can be 3 to 4mm in length. They attach themselves to other animals in order to have a blood meal. There is evidence that ticks are also a threat to human health as they can spread Lyme disease.

There is now a wide range of proprietary powders, sprays, ‘spot-on’ treatments and anti-flea and tick collars available. A dedicated pet care professional will be happy to advise on suitable products.

WORMING ADVICE

Worming your dog throughout its lifetime is important, and you should talk to your vet about a suitable worming programme for your puppy at the earliest opportunity. Regular worming not only protects your dog’s health, but helps to prevent the spread of infection and potentially hazardous health risks to other animals and humans too. Worm infections carried by your dog do not always display obvious symptoms, so an adequate treatment schedule is vital.

A thorough worming treatment has been carried out prior to you collecting your puppy, and a record of this is provided in the chart below. Do discuss this further with your own veterinary surgeon.

*Date Wormed*	*Product Used*
*2 weeks old*	*Drontal Puppy*
*4 weeks old*	*Stronghold Puppy (worms, fleas & ear mites)*
*6 weeks old*	*Drontal Puppy*
*8 weeks old*	*Panacure Puppy 10% (3 day course)*
*Advised next treatment due:*	*10, 12, 14 & 16 weeks Drontal Puppy*

Stronghold (worms, fleas & ear mites)

The Cockapoo is known for its soft, floppy ears, a characteristic that makes it a favourite lapdog. However, as with many dog breeds with ears of this type, the Cockapoo can develop ear problems including ear mites, bacterial infections, and yeast infections as well as in growing hair. The ears should be cleaned weekly, with greater attention given if problems develop. Stronghold is a colourless to yellow, ready to use solution of selamectin. Stronghold is presented in a single use plastic tube for cutaneous (spot-on the back of the neck) administration to dogs for the treatment and prevention of flea infestation, for the prevention of heartworm disease, for the treatment of adult intestinal roundworms, and biting lice infestations including ear mites. We strongly recommend keeping up to date with Stronghold treatments which will need to be ordered through your Vet.

Signs aren't always obvious

Dogs can appear healthy even when they have worm infections. Detecting an infection can be tricky, particularly as worm eggs are too small to be easily visible in your pet's faeces. In addition, your dog may be more at risk from some worm infections than others depending on where you live. It is therefore extremely important to keep your dog’s treatment regular and up-to-date.

Specific signs will be described for each worm, but remember that not all worm infections will be obvious in your dog, so some more general signs to look for include:

The presence of visible worm segments that could stick to your dog's bottom and become itchy. This can cause dogs to “scoot”, whereby they drag their bottoms along the ground with their back legs. Doing this also means that your dog will be rubbing its infected bottom on your floor or carpet, which is naturally unhygienic.
Weight loss.
Vomiting.
Diarrhoea.
A dull, lifeless coat.
A change in appetite (it may be either increased or decreased depending on the worms present).
A lack of energy.
A pot-bellied appearance (most commonly seen in puppies).
Breathing difficulties and coughing.
General changes in behaviour.

You should seek advice from your vet if you see any of the above signs in your dog. Many of these symptoms may be indicative of other illnesses. Your vet will be able to investigate the problem and provide appropriate advice and treatment.

Worming Products

There are a wide variety of worming products available from a number of different sources. These products vary in activity spectrum (the worms they treat or prevent), how you administer the treatment (spot-on / injection / oral medication), dosage instructions and speed or duration of activity. Always check with your vet before initiating a worming regime. This way you can be confident that you are using the most appropriate products, and following the best treatment for the needs of your dog and family.

How Often Should You Worm?

All animals are at risk from acquiring worm infections. However some animals will be at higher risk than others depending on factors such as their lifestyle and area in which you live. Children are at increased risk of disease from worms; if you have a young family or your dog often comes into contact with children, you should pay particular attention to regular worming. Again, always consult with your vet with regard to the most appropriate treatment schedule.

Control Check List

As well as following a worming plan following consultation with your vet, there are also many other practical things you can do to help prevent the spread of worm infections among your pets and family. These are as follows:

'Poop scooping' - make sure you pick up your dog's faeces immediately on a walk and remove it from the lawn or surrounding outdoor environment daily - bag it, and put it in designated poop bins, double bag it, and put it in with the domestic waste, or check with you local council.
Ensure you and your children wash your hands after handling / stroking your dog.
Wash all food including fruit and vegetables before eating them.
Don't allow children to put dirt in their mouths.
Throw away any food dropped on the floor / ground rather than eating it.
Cover children's sandpits when not in use.

Travelling Pets

There are specific parasitic worms to which your pet may be exposed to on visiting countries outside the UK. Two notable worms are Heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis), transmitted by a mosquito bite, which could be fatal if your dog is not protected, and one type of Tapeworm (Echinococcus multilocularis), which can cause serious and fatal disease in people.

If you are intending to travel with your dog, you should talk to your vet in plenty of time to establish the best worming regime to ensure the protection of both your dog's health and that of your family. For further information about what you need to do before, during, and after travel abroad with your dog, refer to the Pet Travel Scheme guidelines on the DEFRA website, www.defra.gov.uk/wildlife-pets/pets/travel.

VACCINATION ADVICE

There are a number of common infectious diseases that dogs are susceptible to throughout their life. Some of these diseases are life threatening and young puppies are particularly vulnerable, so It is important that your puppy is vaccinated against them. Further vaccination as adult dogs may be required to ensure that your dog continues to be healthy and happy throughout its entire life.

Your puppies first vaccination will have been carried out prior to you receiving your puppy and a record will have been provided in a separate document. Please take this with you on your puppy’s first visit to a veterinary surgeon.

Our Veterinary surgery uses Nobivac Dhppi & Nobivac Lepto 4 (L4).

Please speak to your vet to establish if you feel the need add Kennel cough at a later date.

First vaccinations

Normally, your puppy will receive its first vaccination between seven to eight weeks of age. The vet will start your puppy on a course of vaccinations against the four main infectious diseases; canine distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus and leptospirosis. All of these diseases can be fatal, so after its first course of vaccinations, your puppy will still need a booster approximately 14 days after the first, and then a further L4 booster after puppy is twelve weeks old.

Keeping a record

Once a puppy is vaccinated, the vet will issue a vaccination certificate showing a record of exactly when the puppy was vaccinated and which product was used. This should be kept safe, as you may need to show them at boarding kennels, dog-training classes, or if you take your dog abroad. If you change vet, they may recommend a slightly different regime, and it will be useful to see what vaccination your puppy has had in the past.

Vaccination and socialisation

Until your puppy is fully vaccinated you should be careful about letting them become exposed to dogs that could be infected, or visiting areas that unvaccinated dogs could have had access to.

It is worth keeping in mind however, that puppies are most receptive to learning about new environments and situations at this age, so keeping them confined to your house and garden may be counterproductive.

During these important first weeks at home, try to take your puppy out to different places in your arms, or in the car to get them used to different situations and noises, as well as letting them meet new people. Visiting gardens of friend where you know the dogs are vaccinated, or other safe places such as Vet organised Puppy Classes, or regularly cleaned places are a good way to maximise socialisation while limiting the risks. The wet sand of the beach, just after the tide goes out is another good & relatively safe place to visit.

Cocker Spaniels & Cockapoos

Some general information about Cocker Spaniels and the main differences between ‘Show Type’ and ‘Working’ Cockers.

Many people new to Cockers don’t realise there are two distinct strains which have evolved over many years. These are the working strain and the show-type strain, each bred for different purposes with different attributes. It’s important you know the differences between the strains.

Show-strain dogs (which we breed here at Hallslake) are the type seen in the show rings (such as at Crufts). Their appealing looks and compact size have made show-type Cockers popular as family pets for many years. If you see a photo of a Cocker on a calendar or in a book, it will usually be a show-type.

Physically, Working Cockers can look quite different to the show-type Cocker. Whereas show breeders are trying to breed dogs which closely resemble the Cocker Spaniel Breed Standard as laid down by the Kennel Club, Working Cocker breeders consider working ability to be their top priority and are less interested in what their dogs look like. Working Cockers tend to have flatter skulls and higher set, shorter ears compared to the show type dog with his more domed skull and longer, lower set ears. Another big physical difference is in the coat. Although some working type dogs do carry a heavier coat, as a general rule, they have finer coats and far less feathering than the show-type dog. Their general body shape also tends to be rangier and less compact than that of show Cockers. They may vary considerably in size from the quite small to the very tall (although size variation is also seen in the show-type dogs).

Moving on to personality and temperament, all Cockers are busy, active little dogs with minds of their own so nobody should expect a lazy, couch potato if they opt for a Cocker. However a Working Cocker would usually be considerably more active than most show Cockers and have enormous reserves of stamina. A worker can be on the go all day and still be up for more, where as a show-type dog can will usually happily go for long walks but will probably be easier to tire out and content to crash out on his bed (or the sofa) afterwards. A dog that has been bred for an active life as a working dog needs an outlet for all that energy and something to “do” to keep that busy brain occupied and stimulated. Such a dog won’t usually thrive in a home which can only offer limited exercise opportunities and where owners don’t have the time or inclination to get involved in training/activities which provide mental stimulation. The same can be true of show-type Cockers to some extent but as a generalisation, show type Cocker Spaniels will require considerable less mental stimulation/exercise than most working type dogs.

Miniature Poodles

Miniature Poodles are known to be fun-loving small dogs. They are high-spirited, friendly and enjoy nothing more than being in a home environment and part of a family. They thrive on human contact and being included in everything that goes on in a household which is just one of the reasons they make such ideal family pets and companion dogs. It's in their nature to clown around and because they are always so eager and willing to please which when paired to their intelligence, it makes these charming dogs extremely easy to train. However, they are also very quick to pick up any bad behaviours if they are allowed to which in short, means they need to he trained with a firm yet gentle hand.

Because Miniature Poodles are so intelligent, they need to be trained from an early age so they understand their place in the "pack" and who is alpha dog in a household. They may be small in stature, but Miniature Poodles are never happier than when they know who they can look to for direction and guidance. If they are allowed to get away with too much or are pampered a little too often, a Miniature Poodle may start to show a more dominant and wilful side to their nature. This can lead to all sorts of problems around the home which includes excessive barking and being destructive. It's also really important for puppies to be well socialised from a young age so they mature into more confident and well-rounded dogs. Their socialisation has to include introducing them to lots of new situations, noises, people, other animals and dogs once they have been fully vaccinated.

Over the years the Miniature Poodle has proved themselves to be reliable and trustworthy dogs and as such they are a good choice for first time owners, not only because they are highly intelligent and therefore easy to train, but also because they form extremely strong bonds with their families. With this said, they can be a little reserved and standoffish around people they do not know, but rarely would a Miniature Poodle show any sort of aggression towards a stranger, preferring to keep their distance until they get to know someone. They are also very quick to let an owner know when there are strangers about. Miniature Poodles have a reputation for being good around children and they thrive in a home environment loving nothing more than to be involved in things that go on around them which includes playing interactive games with the kids. But as with any dog, it's best for any playtime between children and their pet to be supervised by an adult to make sure things don't get too boisterous which could end up with someone getting hurt or scared.

Cockapoos

Cockapoos are highly adaptable little dogs that are known to be extremely affectionate and loyal to their families by nature. They are also highly intelligent, having inherited this from both their parent breeds. Poodles are among the smartest dogs on the planet and Cockers boast being very clever too although both can be a little too clever for their own good, a trait that Cockapoos certainly know how to use to their own advantage.

They are renowned for being happy, fun-loving characters that are a pleasure to have around. Cockapoos thrive on human company which is fine if they live in a household where one person usually stays at home when everyone else is out of the house. They are not the best choice for people who spend most of the time out of the home leaving their dogs to their own devices for long periods of time. If a Cockapoo is left to their own devices and they are not given the correct amount of daily exercise and mental stimulation, they quickly get bored and this can lead to all sorts of problems. A bored Cockapoo can develop unwanted behavioural issues and they can even suffer from separation anxiety which sees dogs becoming destructive around the home and barking incessantly when their owners are out of the house.

They are quite sensitive dogs by nature and therefore, they do not answer well to any sort of harsh correction, nor do Cockapoos respond well to heavy handed training methods. They do respond very well to positive reinforcement and are known to be quite "voice sensitive" which means they quickly pick up the different tones owners use when giving them certain commands. It’s important to offer a dog fewer high quality treats rather than give them lower value ones which could lead to a Cockapoo putting on too much weight early on in their lives which could seriously impact their health later on.

Cockapoos are known to be very good around children which is why they make such wonderful family pets and why they have been a popular choice with people both here in the UK and elsewhere in the world for so long. However, any interaction between dogs and younger children should always be supervised by an adult to make sure playtime does not get too boisterous which could end up with someone getting hurt.

They are also known to be sociable dogs by nature, especially if they have been well socialised from a young enough age which in short, means Cockapoos generally get on well with other dogs and animals which includes cats. Having said this, a Cockapoo would think nothing of chasing a neighbour's cat if they got the chance to. As with other dogs, care has to be taken when they are around smaller pets just in case.

Hallslake Cocker Spaniels & Cockapoos

Liz & Graham Mugleston

Hallslake Farm, Lynton, Devon.

01598 741105

Liz@BroadRiver.co.uk

SALES CONTRACT

SECTION 1: DOG'S DETAILS

NAME OF DOG: ………………………………………………………………………………………

MOTHER & FATHER: …………………………………...………………......................................

BREED:…………………………………………………………………………………………………

DATE OF BIRTH: …………………………………………………………..…………………………

SEX: …………………………………………………………………………………………...………..

COLOUR: …………………………………………………………………………………..………….

MICROCHIP NUMBER:….………………………………………………………………………..…

DATABASE REGISTERED WITH: www.SmartTrace.org.uk

This is to confirm that the sale of the dog described above has taken place between:

SECTION 2: DETAILS OF BOTH PARTIES

BREEDER’S NAME: Graham & Liz Mugleston…..………………………………………………

BREEDER’S ADDRESS: Hallslake Farm, Lynton, Devon, EX35 6LG.…………………..…..

BREEDER’S TELEPHONE NUMBER: 01598 741444………………..………………..………...

and

PURCHASER’S NAME(S):…………..……………..………………………………………………

PURCHASER’S ADDRESS: ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

PURCHASER’S TELEPHONE NUMBER: …………………………………………………….…..

PURCHASER’S EMAIL ADDRESS: …………………………………………………….…………

SECTION 3: HEALTH & WELFAR E

The Breeder has taken every care with breeding, rearing and the welfare of the Dog. The Dog is believed to be in good health and it is sold in good faith. The Breeder makes no warranty however as to the health or disposition of the Dog.

Every effort has been made to avoid any possible inherited conditions. Conditions known/thought to be that our Cocker Spaniel girls are tested for are;

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (prcd-PRA), Acral Mutilation Syndrome,

Familial Nephropathy (FN), Degenerative Myelopathy,

Exercise-Induced Collapse, Glycogen Storage Disease VII (Phosphofructokinase deficiency), Annual Eye Testing & Gonioscopy,

Hip Dysplasia Scheme, Luxating Patella

The poodles are also checked for;

Von Willebrand disease, Degenerative Myelopathy, Neonatal Encephalopathy, Osteochondrodysplasia & Gangliosidosis GM2.

Relevant, existing DNA screening schemes have been used and copies of relevant results have been provided.

The Puppy has been checked by a Veterinary Surgeon prior to sale and details are included below. Although no warranty can be given on the future health of the puppy, the outcome of that check has been passed onto the purchaser together with the details of the veterinary surgeon who carried it out. I give consent for the purchaser to contact the veterinary surgeon to discuss any aspect of the puppy’s health, and give consent for my Veterinary Surgeon to discuss this with the purchaser.

The Breeder’s Veterinary Surgeon’s details are as follows:

White Lodge Veterinary Clinic

Stephenson Road, Minehead, Somerset. TA24 5EB

01643 703649

SECTION 4: PURCHASER’S RIGHT TO RETURN THE DOG IN THE CASE OF A DEFECT

The Purchaser(s) shall have SEVEN days to have the Dog examined by a practising veterinary surgeon and shall have the right during a period not exceeding TWO days after such examination to return the Dog because of a defect (other than described below) on production of a written report from the said veterinary surgeon, at which time the Purchaser(s) will be refunded the full purchase price. There is NO REFUND offered for a change of mind or change of circumstance leading to the return of a puppy.

The Purchaser(s) hereby acknowledge(s) that the Breeder has disclosed the following faults or defects in the Dog:

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………

Should it become necessary, the Purchaser(s) should be aware that the return of a Dog can be very difficult, especially emotionally and, having drawn the attention of the Purchaser(s) to this, the Breeder cannot be held responsible for any distress caused by the return of the Dog.

SECTION 5: POTENTIAL OF DOG

Although any description of the Dog as being of show, working or other quality is given in good faith, it is a condition of this sale that no warranty can be given as to the ultimate show / working / field trial or breeding potential on maturity of the Dog.

SECTION 7: REHOMING

The Purchaser(s) agree that if, at any stage in the Dog's life, the Purchaser(s) need to re-home the Dog, the Breeder will be immediately informed and the Purchaser(s) will return the Dog to the Breeder. The Breeder will offer every reasonable assistance to find a new home for the Dog but there will be NO REFUND offered for the return of the dog. The resale of any Dog bought from Hallslake Cockers is not allowed.

SECTION 8: DATE, DECLARATIONS AND SIGNATURES

DATE OF SALE …….......................................................................................................

PURCHASE PRICE RECEIVED BY BREEDER:

£______________________ Cash / Bank Transfer

DECLARATION BY PURCHASER:

I/we confirm that I/we have read and had a full explanation of all the detail and meaning of this contract prior to purchase and I/we fully understand its purpose and reason. I/we also confirm that I/we are purchasing this for myself/ourselves and not as agents for a third party.

SIGNED (PURCHASER/S)

….............................................................................................................................................

b) DECLARATION BY BREEDER:

I/we confirm that we are the breeders of said Dog.

SIGNED (BREEDER)

…….............................................................................................................................................

Hallslake Cockers & Cockapoos

SALES CONTRACT (breeders copy)

SECTION 1: DOG'S DETAILS

NAME OF DOG: ………………………………………………………………………………………

MOTHER & FATHER: …………………………………...………………......................................

BREED:…………………………………………………………………………………………………

DATE OF BIRTH: …………………………………………………………..…………………………

SEX: …………………………………………………………………………………………...………..

COLOUR: …………………………………………………………………………………..………….

MICROCHIP NUMBER:….………………………………………………………………………..…

This is to confirm that the sale of the dog described above has taken place between:

SECTION 2: DETAILS OF BOTH PARTIES

BREEDER’S NAME: Graham & Liz Mugleston of Hallslake Farm, Lynton, Devon, EX35 6LG (01598) 741444

and

PURCHASER’S NAME(S):…………..……………..………………………………………………

PURCHASER’S TELEPHONE NUMBER: …………………………………………………….…..

PURCHASER’S EMAIL ADDRESS: …………………………………………………….…………

SECTION 3: HEALTH & WELFAR E

The Purchaser(s) hereby acknowledge(s) that the Breeder has disclosed the following faults or defects in the Dog:

………………………………………………………………………………………………………….……………………………………….........

SECTION 4: PURCHASER’S RIGHT TO RETURN THE DOG IN THE CASE OF A DEFECT

SECTION 5: POTENTIAL OF DOG

SECTION 7: REHOMING

SECTION 8: DATE, DECLARATIONS AND SIGNATURES

PURCHASE PRICE RECEIVED BY BREEDER:

£______________________ Cash / Bank Transfer

DATE OF SALE …….......................................................................................................

DECLARATION BY PURCHASER:

SIGNED (PURCHASER/S)........................................................................................................

b) DECLARATION BY BREEDER:

I/we confirm that we are the breeders of said Dog.

SIGNED (BREEDER) ………………………………………………………………………………..